Polecat instruction manual
"Alert: If the center web and/or
the vertical bulkhead in the front of the wing saddle of the fuse
is, modified or removed, then you must put lots of epoxy and glass
fiber "goop" under and around each of the front wing mounting
blocks. A plywood gusset front and rear of the blocks attached to
the fuse sides would be a good solution as well.
To not do this,can and probably will cause the wing blocks to leave
the fuse along with the wing. Not a good thing."
1. First wash all components with soap and water to remove all
access mold release.
2. Next sand the entire fuselage, especially the areas that will
receive fillets (around the stab and the wing saddle). I usually
sand the fillet areas with 80 grit and the rest of the fuselage
with 180 to prep it for paint. The white color is paint and can
be used as the primer (this is what I do).
3. Cut out the area inside the fillets to receive the stab and control
horn. On the right side of the fuselage you will see a small recessed
rectangular area, this is where the control horn slides through
the fuselage. Cut the rectangle out leaving a 3/32" flange
to receive a 1/64th ply cover. The cover will be glued to the flange
and then filled when you apply fillets to the stab. For fillets
I use a product called "Super-Fil" which is sold by Aircraft
Spruce and specialty. It is a two part epoxy filler that is awesome
try it you will like it. There seems to be a slight amount of negative
built into the fillets so keep the stab towards the top of the cut-out
in the front and to the bottom in the rear. It is not much but needs
to be addressed.
4. Cut out the firewall using the supplied template on the drawing
using 3/8" five ply, plywood.
5. Slide the firewall into the fuselage and make the necessary trimming
so that the firewall fits snuggly into the fuselage but not so tight
that it deforms the fuselage.
6. Place your motor mount inside the engine compartment and fasten
your motor to the mount. Remove the necessary material from the
fuselage around the venturi so that the motor fits properly and
be careful not to remove too much material so that the opening around
the venturi is too large. At this point you will be installing and
removing the engine a couple of times until the venturi fits, when
doing this make sure the firewall is pressed up against the mount
and install your spinner every time to verify the fit. (I have only
installed a NELSON engine into the airplane).
7. Once you are satisfied with the engine fit press the firewall
up against the mount and use some thin CA to tack glue the mount
to the firewall. (THE ENGINE MUST BE IN THE PROPER POSITION AND
THE SPINNER MUST HAVE THE PROPER SPACING TO ALLOW THE ENGINE TO
OPERATE. YOU MAY USE EITHER A PIECE OF 1/32 PLY OR BALSA TO SPACE
THE SPINNER AWAY FROM THE FUSELAGE.)
8. Next, remove the engine from the mount and drill the pilot holes
for the mount through the firewall.
9. Tap the mount to break it free from the firewall and remove the
firewall through the wing saddle. Re-drill the mount holes to accommodate
the blind nuts and install the blind nuts.
10. Sand the area inside the fuselage surrounding the firewall and
glue your firewall in place. Use slow-drying epoxy and glass fibers
and make sure your engine is aligned prior to the epoxy curing.
11. Cut out the cheek cowl cover using the scribe lines. And verify
that it fits correctly onto the fuselage with the engine installed.
12. Mount the aileron servo. Cut through both the bottom and top
skins at the centerline to accommodate your servo and horn (distance
back from the LE is shown on the print). Stay away from square corners!
Plywood plates installed onto the top skin will provide the necessary
mounting area for the servo. The servo is fastened to the plates
through the bottom (opposite of normal installation). 4-40 screws
through the torque tubes and Goldberg 3/32 plastic horns are used
to actuate the ailerons. I have recently switched to using brass
tubing horns, the 4-40 screws will need to have the threads removed
to allow the 1/8" tubing to fit. However, leave enough threads
so that you can still fasten the screws to the torque tubes. The
brass tubing allows the linkage to be installed easily versus the
plastic horns. Both methods work. Make sure the servo and linkage
is set-up correctly prior to installing the canopy.
13. Next mount the wing. The wing is secured to the fuselage from
the bottom through the wing fillets. (Notice the inside of the fuselage
has hard points installed into the fillets to accommodate the mounting
screws. Use the drawing as a reference as to where to drill the
holes. You will use 4 bolts, use either (4) 10-24 or 10-32 flat
heads or (2) ¼-20 for the front and (2) 10-24 or 10-32 screws
for the rear.
14. Line up the wing with the center-line of the fuse to ensure
that it is square. Next secure the trailing edge of the wing to
the fuselage using a servo mounting screw (on the center-line at
the root through the wing into the fuselage saddle). Repeat this
process for the leading edge except this time use 2 servo screws
through the wing and into the fuselage saddle (as close to the leading
edge as you can get). The reason for this is to keep the wing aligned
as you drill the mounting holes through the fuselage into the wing.
15. Make the drill guide template supplied on the print and use
this as a reference for drilling the wing mounting holes, DETAIL
C. Drill one hole and tap it, install a screw. Repeat this process
until all 4 holes are drilled and tapped. Use the same template
to countersink all four holes. Remove the wing and re-drill the
holes in the fuselage to accept the bolts.
16. Install the tail through the fuselage. Slide the pushrod through
the saddle and connect it to the elevator horn. Use a small piece
of 1/64th ply to cover the cut-out. The ply can be CA'd in place
and filled when you make the fillets.
17. Install the rudder control horn. Use a ½ A horn, cut
the bottom ear off so that the horn can be installed low enough
for the rudder pushrod to pass through the exit guide. Dremel out
the rudder to accept the horn and epoxy the horn in place. Fill
the cut-out when you add fillets to the stab. (Verify that you have
at least 3/8" of right rudder throw)
18. With the tail and wing in place check the incidence. Everything
should be zero. Pot the wing to the fuselage and CA the tail in
19. Trim the canopy to fit. Sand the canopy and CA it in place.
20. Remove the wing from the fuselage and apply fillets to the tail
21. Install the landing gear. First install a 1/16th ply plate on
top of the landing gear recess area inside the fuselage. As shown
on the print DETAIL A, the landing gear is installed from the inside
of the fuselage into a plate on the bottom of the gear. You can
either use a small cover over the gear or create a small filler
block as shown on the print. Use 6-32 button head screws and blind
nuts. Space in this area is tight so anything you can do to reduce
the overall height will be helpful. The gear bolt pattern is shown
in DETAIL B.
a. Another option is to install the plate inside the fuselage and
put the blind-nuts inside the fuselage. This allows you to remove
the gear from the outside and you must utilize a small cover taped
onto the fuselage. CAUTION, use 4-40 screws and make sure they will
not puncture the tank.
(NOTE: the blind nuts inside the fuselage seems to be easier, this
is the method I currently use)
22. Prime and paint.
1. Ailerons should be done!!
2. Use the template provided on the print to make your servo tray.
You may use any configuration you wish as long as you provide enough
space between the landing gear and the servos to accommodate your
3. Receiver is placed between the servos and the tank.
4. The battery pack is installed up front on top of the tank up
against the firewall.
5. The CG should come out at 2 3/8" from the leading edge.
I have flown with the CG as far back as 2 ½".
6. To ensure that the proper height is obtained between the tank
and the bottom of the wing you must place the rear of the tank in
boiling water for a few seconds to soften the plastic and then while
the plastic is soft squeeze the rear of the tank to reduce it's
overall height. Not much is needed just enough to get the wing to
7. You will need more throw than you think, I would start out with
1/8" of travel up and down on both the elevator and ailerons
as low rate.
Note: Early models have had aileron flutter, this has been minimal
and is easily corrected with a piece of tape across the outboard
aileron gap. The tape is placed at a 45 degree angle covering the
midpoint of the tip of the aileron.
Parts needed to complete this kit:
1. Engine mount (I have only tried the JETT mount)
2. 1 ½ inch spinner
3. Jett CG tank
4. Wheels and Axles
5. Misc. radio installation components (plywood, pushrods, glue,